Caitlan’s beautiful chrome Rob Bailey was suffering from a case of seat post slippage. No matter how much she tightened the binder bolt it never really felt tight and the post slipped down under load. Looking at the seatpost lug it was clear that the hole in the ears was a bit too big for the bolt and this resulted in the ears deforming inward. ,while the bolt moved further out toward the back of the lug. The traditional way to fix this problem is to braze a piece into the ears, filling up the larger holes and then drill it out to match the bolt. To do this to the Rob Bailey would have meant destroying the chrome. A costly and more complicated job than was needed. I decided to machine up some stainless steel bushes that could be bonded into the lug. I made them with the appropriate diameter holes for the binder bolt and left a small lip on both of them so the epoxy would be tempted to give way when they were tightened. The flats are clearance on the back of the seat tube. If your interested, I used Devcon plastic steel to bond them together. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures after I assembled them into the frame, but the seatpost was finally tight when it left the shop
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Gareth from Essendon Cyclery https://www.essendoncyclery.com.au/ brought round this Salsa that he was building up for a client. It was to have Di2 and a hub dynamo and he wanted to run the cables internally. I drilled holes in the appropriate spots and brazed stainless washers over them for reinforcement. I sent it off to Bell Powder Coating in Preston to be coated in Gloss Black.
Apart from the Di2 this build will have quite a few hi-end parts including a set of Praxis cranks and a top cap switch for the dyno hub. Looking forward to seeing the final set up
I am somewhat of an analogue person. I like manually operated stuff. I drive a manual car, like manually wound watches and have yet to convert to electronic shift on any of my bikes. Cables do pretty well. However I decided that it was time to bring my Deckel FP1 milling machine into the 21st century. One of the challenges in working with a relatively small machine was that I didn’t want the accessories to overwhelm the machine itself. So I decided to use the same bracket that the light mounts to for the swing arm, just to reduce the number of things bolted to the machine. I think it works, but only time will tell.
Just when I thought we had canvased all the possibilities for a future frame Bundit turned up with another frankenbike idea. He has in his head the idea that he would like a funny bike. To this end we have crafted two frames together in order to let him decide if it is remotely comfortable. Given the bracing that Bundit thinks looks pretty cool, this frame is pretty weighty. Little does he know that those gussets on Cinelli laser’s were mostly bog and did little to aid structural integrity. They were all about aerodynamics. Anyway, I am comfortable with this construction. I hope he finally gets around to the real thing one day.
Bundit is an artist, https://www.facebook.com/bunditpuangthong/ and works in framing shop ( picture framing) to support his art. At Christmas time I was given a vintage Polish poster which Bundit framed for me. It has come up very well
This frame came in after a visit to a Chrome Plater. For reasons of anonymity both the name of the frame and the plater will remain private.
The frame had gone in for the rear end to be chrome plated. It had come out with the seat stays partially rusted away. Something had gone wrong in the process. I can only presume that the reason the chain stays weren’t in the same condition is that they were able to drain more effectively. Anyway my job was to replace the rusting seat stays and return it to the way it looked before. It was a Reynolds 531 frame from the 70’s with Campagnolo dropouts. It would be a shame to let it die. I cut the old stays out and decided to save the original bridge.
Instead of the solid top eyes that you can buy now that plug into the top of the stays, this frame had traditional Italian style concave tips. These are made by filing down the stay to the length you like. In this case the original ones were about 50mm long. Using the off-cut from the stay, you braze it to the angle you have filed and proceed to cut that down to the edges of the tube.
When you are finished it looks like this.
You then braze them back into the frame and fix the bridge back in place.
I am not sure what he owner of this frame will do now. He has to make
up his mind whether to risk another visit to a chrome plater or just paint. This isn’t the first repair I have done after a plating mishap and I cant at the moment. actually recommend anyone in Melbourne. I am open to advice here though and even if it just for the sake of vintage restorations, would like to find someone reliable.However,this frame is structurally sound again.