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Many Australian cyclists may have participated in or be aware of a 500km charity ride called the Murray to Moyne. This ride goes from the Murray river town of Mildura down to the coastal town of Port Fairy and raises money for charity. Its a team event and was started by a guy named Graham Woodrup in 1987. He lived in Port Fairy and was a very keen distance cyclist. At some time he visited the UK and organized the purchase of a Woodrup frame. There is a suggestion that he was distantly related. Over Easter this year I got to perform a series of updates to this very frame. I know its that frame because the current owner contacted Woodrup in he UK with the frame and fork numbers. Graham was unfortunately killed in 1992 while out training.

At the new owners request I moved the cable guides from on the top of the BB shell and chainstay to underneath. I spread the rear stays to take a 10spd hub and squared up the dropouts. I added a set of braze on lever bosses and a braze on frontderalieur mount. I modified the brake mounting holes to accept recessed nuts and filled a couple of dents. It should be good for another 40 years now. I hope Graham would approve

Its always good when your customers are happy and even better when they send photos of the complete bike. Both the forks on these bikes were projects from earlier this year. Really glad they are happy AND riding their bikes

Hi all from Stage 4 Covid19 restrictions in Melbourne Australia

These forks turned up for me to replace.

Broken forks

The owner had been riding them when they failed, but was unhurt. He told me that he had specified a touring frame from the builder but when he first picked up the frame it had toe overlap. He didnt like it so the builder made a new set of forks with (once I measured them) 82mm of rake. I knew who the builder was and given he built more racing frames than touring ones I suspect his original geometry wasn’t really concerned about toe overlap. Anyway, all I could do was copy these and to do that I had to re-adjust the curve on my fork mandrel. It wont change the radius on future shorter rake forks but it did allow these blades to curve over more. Lucky its made from wood. Once that was done it was a pretty straightforward set of forks.

Crown and steerer

82mm of rake

New fork jig and fork

Finished and sandblasted touring fork

I got to try out my new fork jig for the first time and must say I don’t know why I took so long to make this one. It works much better than the old 1/2 inch steel plate version and is much lighter. The next job is to update the canti boss jig and make that easier

Stay safe everyone

Quite a while ago I posted about a restoration I was doing for myself of a Petrus bicycle. As I mentioned these were built in Melbourne Australia by Peter Brotherton during the 1970’s and early 80’s. If you have a look at my previous post https://gdukehandmadebicycles.com.au/2014/02/ you will see how mine came to me. now I can finally show you how it turned out along with the period correct first generation black Shimano Dura Ace components. It has taken this long to actually get back to it.  In this challenging time of Covid 19 it is all ways good to see something different. I hope you enjoy

Frame repairs are a case in problem solving. In the last little while I have had two instances where most people would say “time for a new frame”or “too far gone” . The first involved a warrantied tig welded frame that the company replaced after viewing it online and asking the owner to cut through the bottom bracket shell beside the frame number. They got to verify that the frame couldn’t be ridden again and replaced it. The original problem with a broken dropout was fixed by a friend of the owner. Adrian brought it to me and wanted to know if I could do anything to keep the frame going. He wanted a second bike to use around town. I had a long think about this and decided to apply a patch along the BB shell. While I wouldn’t say it looks like bought one, it will be good for many more k’s.

Warrantied BB shell

BB shell repair

The second was a case of two broken bottle bosses in the downtube of a plain gauge tig welded frame. Ordinarily in a lugged frame I would suggest we take the tube out and replace it. This frame made that both difficult and un-economical. I decided once again to apply a patch over the whole area with new bottle mounts. Again the frame will do many more kilometers before it needs to be replaced

Broken bottle bosses

Patch and new bottle bosses

Bottle bosses replaced and painted

I don’t do this sort of work lightly and I dont see this as the easy way out. A patch is rarely as good as a replacement but in both these cases I believe they will last and are well executed. They are also quite visible but I do attempt to be elegant at the same time so I am not hiding anything when I do them

Sometimes your time is very much taken up with repairs and adjustments to peoples bikes. Over the past month I have moved a pair of canti bosses so that they would accommodate a wider rim ( I had to move them further out and a little down so that the arc would meet the rim). Repaired a seat binder boss that was collapsing after about 30 years use and reamed out two seat post that were seized in their respective frames. Please people grease your seat posts regularly. I also added a set of cable guides for a hub dyno and adjusted the rear spacing on a frame from 126 to 130mm. While I could look at all this and not see much in it the biggest thing that actually comes out of a month like this is that people get to put their bikes back on the road and keep riding, and I think that is a great thing.

Canti bosses

Cable Guides

New binder bolt in progress

New Seat binder boss

Expandable reamers

Frozen Seat post removal

I have finally got that Rossin Low Profile inspired frame together. As I said elsewhere, the customer is going to take it and ride it in its current state and bring it back before the handmade bicycle show in Melbourne #HBSA next year. We will get it painted and display it at the show. To recap , this frame is constructed using original unused Rossin lugs and handmade top tube lugs to accommodate the top tube slope .NOS Reynolds tubing. Its built for the road and as a fixie so will have a front brake. It has a 700 rear wheel and a 650 front.  Doing things by hand and without repetition always takes a long time but is very very satisfying. The owner of this bike is a visual artist / painter so he understands. That makes it all worth while.

Rossin Low Pro frame and fork

Rossin Low Pro head tube

Rossin Low Pro Seat cluster

Rossin Low Pro rear dropouts

Rossin Low Pro BB and aero gusset

Bicycle framebuilding tends to be glorified sometimes. It is often considered to be something out there and inspirational. Often this view is shared by those who don’t really understand the process. They tend to think of a framebuilder holding a torch and producing a frame. That part of the process only accounts for a small proportion of the build. If you have read the blurb at the front of this webpage then you might remember that I am a toolmaker by trade. That meant that when I came to framebuilding I had already acquired many of the base skills required to make a frame. I was pretty adept with a file. I could turn and mill things. I new how to braze and silver solder. I doubt I would have had the nerve to attempt my first frame without having those skills. Over the last month I have spent most of my time doing tasks that use those skills but don’t actually result in anything glamorous. I have done a couple of simple repairs like filling dents on a top tube and filing them back. Re-setting a rear end to accommodate a wider axle and reaming and facing a frame for assembly as well as getting the front triangle of the Rossin inspired low profile frame together. See my past post on this topic  https://gdukehandmadebicycles.com.au/2019/05/31/lo-pro-or-funny-frame/  Most of these tasks are little bits of nothing, but when you apply them to a frame that needs to come out of the process straight and ride-able then you need a strategy. How do I go about this. What order should I do this in. I bought my first set of tubes from someone who had departed the game long before . He described framebuilding as tedious. He said it wasn’t hard, but tedious. I wouldn’t necessarily agree. I find it very satisfying, and I plan to at it for some time yet, but it isn’t glamorous.

Dent repair on a Ken Evans

Frame alignment

The front triangle on the Rossin low profile frame

Mark brought me another one of his collection to repair. The Monarch, built in 1898 in Yackandandah, Victoria, Australia. A great example of a shearers bike that would have been ridden from town to town in search of work. This example was built for a G Denny, as evidenced by the seat tube badge. These bikes were made at the beginning of the safety bike era. It has a high bottom bracket and a truss fork. Presumably this was an attempt to strengthen the fork for its journey over the many rough , unmade roads country Victoria offered at the time. Anyway for whatever reason the truss portion of the fork had rusted away. I needed to make up some new sections and fit the fork in the frame in order to work out the exact length since the upper clamping point is at the clip style headset. There is not alot of room for adjustment once you commit with the torch here There was lots of dry fitting with tiny 3/32 ball bearings. Great to get it back on the road for the next hundred years

Rossin fork crown for a LoPro

Rossin BB shell

Rossin BB shell with filing

After much too-ing and fro-ing over a number of years my regular customer and visual artist Bundit has finally decided he wants me to build him a Lo Pro frame in the style of a Rossin.
He is so enamored with the brand that he has sourced original pantographed frame fittings. We have a fork crown, a Bottom Bracket shell and a set of rear chainstays with caps already joined. These haven’t been rescued from a crashed frame but from far flung Romania. They need a fair bit of work to get to a usable state but I am getting there. Based on sizing and preferences arrived at through other modifications I have done for Bundit in the past this will be a single speed frame for the road. It will run a 650 front wheel and a front brake. Given the BB shell had guide slots cast into it for the cables, and we werent going to need them I decided to fill these with brass before commencing work. Well, not quite. There is a lot of work involved in building a frame before I do any joining of tubes. I also had to do some serious work on the crown to make it fit. Rough wouldn’t be the word I would use here and I have come to the conclusion that these aren’t actually pantographed using the said machine as we might have always assumed but that the lettering is cast into them from the start. Anyway I will leave you with some pictures and get back to it. This has been a long time coming and the worst thing about it might be that it could be the last job I do for Bundit when it is finished. We shall see